Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Blanc 2019 SF Chronicle Schioppettino was all but extinct

Schioppettino was all but extinct after phylloxera until Paolo and Dina Rapuzzi brought it back from a handful of surviving vines in the 1970s -- and helped get its cultivation declared legal again in 1976

and the vineyard delivers on the name: a mid-slope Beaune premier cru whose stony soils give Pinot Noir a lift and polish that richer sites cannot fake

from creamy cheeses like Comté to roasted white meats and even desserts with light chocolate notes

with a subtle spice note and just enough French oak to frame it

ripe cassis

Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Blanc 2019 SF Chronicle Schioppettino was all but extinctThe Bourdy family has been making wine in the village of Arlay since 1475, which is fifteen generations and makes most 'historic' domaines look like startups. What hasn't changed is the pace: Bourdy ages its wines for years before letting them go, which is why a 2019 Cotes du Jura Blanc is only reaching shelves now. This is Chardonnay, farmed biodynamically (certified since 2006) and raised for years in old barrels, which gives it the nutty, saline